New Year, New Goals II

2019 has arrived here in full force. I was passed by at least 15 joggers this morning while I walked my dogs and my gyms parking lot has been jam packed the last couple of weeks. It seems like everyone is embracing their New Years resolutions, including myself. As I have mentioned before, New Years Day is one of my favorite days of the year. I love the feeling of starting fresh, opening up a new planner, and writing down all my aspirations for how to improve myself in the next 12 months. However, before I share my climbing/fitness related goals for 2019, I want to step back and look at how I progressed as a climber in 2018.

Below are my goals from 2018 that I shared in this post:

Send a 5.12 indoor on lead– This I ended up achieving, although it was a 12- technically. Most of my focus was on projecting 5.11s in the gym.

Lead five 5.11a’s outdoor– I definitely achieved this, although sadly I haven’t sent one cleanly yet. However, I have led/projected routes ranging from 5.11a- 5.11c in many different places, including the Red River Gorge, Red Rock Canyon, Shelf Road, the New River Gorge, and various semi-local crags in West Virginia/Virginia.

Document climbing/running workouts in a notebook– I have made this a habit and continue to do so.

Mileage: Lead 50 5.11a’s in gym; once completed, work towards 50 5.11bs– This was completed pretty quickly, as my gym in Richmond has shorter walls so I get a lot of climbs in whenever I route climb.

Strength train at least 2x a week– My average was most like 1x a week, which I’m happy with.

Complete 10 deadhang pull-ups in sequence by end of year; right now I’m at about 4-5– This was not a focus of mine, so right now I am averaging more like 6-7 per sequence. I think I’ve maxed at 8.

Work on front-lever progression– Did not work on this at all, whoops.

First trad lead- Done! In July, I led a 5.3 at the Red River Gorge on gear 🙂

Complete one full cycle of a training plan– I paid for Training Beta’s Route Climbing Program for 3-4 months and ended up completing a couple cycles of their training plan, which ended up improving my strength endurance a lot on routes. Currently I’m following more a Logical Progression style plan where I include hangboarding/strength, power endurance, limit bouldering, and route projecting into my weekly rotation.

Overall, I’d say my biggest climbing successes in 2018 were the following:

1. I got a LOT more mileage on the sharp end outdoors, and had the opportunity to try harder climbs. Prior to 2018, most of my leading outdoors was limited to climbs between the 5.7- 5.9 range, while this past year I made an intentional decision to push myself into the 5.10- 5.11 range.

2. I redpointed a 5.10c outdoors in only a couple of tries, and flashed a 5.10b in Shelf Road in June (hardest redpoint and hardest flash to date)

3. I led my first multi-pitch climb in Zion National Park in June, and led another multi-pitch in Boulder Canyon in August.

4. I completed my first trad lead in July, and followed up with another lead in Boulder Canyon in August.

And now, low and behold, here are my goals with climbing for 2019. 🤗

  • Climb outside once a month OR at least 12 different trips in the span of a year (with specific goal route in mind). January has already been super snowy/rainy for Virginia, so I may not make it out this month, but hoping to get a lot of outdoor mileage in 2019.
  • Send 5.11c on lead outdoors. I believe this is attainable as I have been incredibly close already to sending a 5.11a outdoors. Specifically I’d love to project Witness the Citrus at the Red River Gorge. I will likely focus on this goal more in late summer/fall of 2019.
  • Lead 15 5.11s and greater outdoors.

  • Send 5 5.12s on lead in gym.

  • Lead a trad multi pitch. Dustin and I are traveling to Red Rock Canyon and Joshua Tree next month for two weeks so I am hoping to knock this goal out then!
  • Lead Happy Cracks (5.8) on gear. This is a local Virginia crack climb that is easily accessible for me to project on TR and come back to lead if need be. Also located at a crag that is nice to climb at basically year-round.
  • Send Barnacle Bill (5.11b). This is my local sport project for this spring. Requires crimp strength and power!
  • Send Orange Crush (5.11a/b). This is a route at a local crag not listed on Mountain Project. However, I have been disappointingly only one move away from sending this climb multiple times, falling only because the crux was WET. Ugh. Hopefully this climb will go down soon.
  • Send 3 v6s in gym. So far I’ve sent a couple v5s but nothing higher.
  • 10 consecutive pull-ups. Still on the list.
  • Yoga once a week. I will continue to strength train at least 1x a week as well, but I’d like to place focus on yoga as well this year to help balance out some instabilities I have with strength and balance.
  • Core 2x a week. I have pinpointed my core strength as a major weakness of mine recently, particularly on overhanging boulder problems.

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